旅行,似乎已經成為Maria Grazia Chiuri接手Dior以後的中心思想,在短短的一年內,從東京到紐約、從聖塔莫尼卡到巴黎,她的展演幾乎繞了地球一整圈,這次在拿破崙長眠之地—巴黎傷兵院(Hôtel des Invalides)舉辦的2017年秋冬高級訂製服大秀,也脫不開旅行、探索等概念。
It's on! With exquisite authority, this first look - worn by Ruth Bell - sets the stage for the incomparable exploration of culture and timeless Dior style that #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show represents. #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 4:23下午 PDT 張貼
It's on! With exquisite authority, this first look - worn by Ruth Bell - sets the stage for the incomparable exploration of culture and timeless Dior style that #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show represents. #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 4:23下午 PDT 張貼
Maria Grazia Chiuri這次找來義大利藝術家Pietro Ruffo負責場景設計,這次的秀場以全球多元自然景觀為題材,在舞台正中央上方是一個巨大的星型,印有世界地圖的圖案,而在下方的伸展台,星星的五個角正好對應的是五大洲的典型自然樣貌,紙雕作成的野生動物們與森林、草原、沙漠等環境相映成趣。
#MariaGraziaChiuri called on the Italian artist Pietro Ruffo to design the set for today's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show. His imaginative decor traces the Earth and the celestial sphere with poetic grace in a star-shaped amphitheater with a runway in the same form, each branch corresponding to a continent containing wooden sculptures of animals! From a giraffe, a rhinoceros and a lion in the African savanna to a tiger and a monkey in the depths of the Asian jungle! Globetrotting magic! #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 6:02上午 PDT 張貼
#MariaGraziaChiuri called on the Italian artist Pietro Ruffo to design the set for today's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show. His imaginative decor traces the Earth and the celestial sphere with poetic grace in a star-shaped amphitheater with a runway in the same form, each branch corresponding to a continent containing wooden sculptures of animals! From a giraffe, a rhinoceros and a lion in the African savanna to a tiger and a monkey in the depths of the Asian jungle! Globetrotting magic! #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 6:02上午 PDT 張貼
Check out our on-site image to get a sense of Italian artist Pietro Ruffo's poetically graceful retracing of the Earth with an eagle swooping beneath the celestial sphere in his designs for the set of #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show as a reflection of the inspirations behind her collection. #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 6:32上午 PDT 張貼
Check out our on-site image to get a sense of Italian artist Pietro Ruffo's poetically graceful retracing of the Earth with an eagle swooping beneath the celestial sphere in his designs for the set of #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show as a reflection of the inspirations behind her collection. #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 6:32上午 PDT 張貼
The ephemeral beauty of a moment in time, the #emptyspaces captured just before the first guests start arriving at the much-awaited #MariaGraziaChiuri Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show! Stay connected to avoid missing out on a single moment of the big day! © Adrien Dirand #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 4:58上午 PDT 張貼
The ephemeral beauty of a moment in time, the #emptyspaces captured just before the first guests start arriving at the much-awaited #MariaGraziaChiuri Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show! Stay connected to avoid missing out on a single moment of the big day! © Adrien Dirand #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 4:58上午 PDT 張貼
在Maria Grazia Chiuri眼中,地圖象徵了對別處的渴望、對旅行的期翼以及拓野八方和探索自我的心願,地圖令她回想到自己從羅馬前往巴黎的旅程,正是這段旅程,使她如今得以探索Dior的歷史財富。
適逢Dior品牌創立70週年,Dior也在巴黎裝飾藝術美術館(Musée des Arts Décoratifs)舉辦了《Christian Dior,Designer of Dreams》(迪奧:造夢設計師)特展,展示了品牌歷年來所有設計師的作品,也因此,對於這次的高訂系列,Maria Grazia Chiuri希望能夠忠實地以Christian Dior本人為啟發,用作品來向他的畢生成就致敬。
雖然說,這次系列是以「讓全世界所有女人都能輕鬆駕馭的服飾」為主軸,貫串所有作品,但整體以灰色為色彩基調,剪裁俐落、面料單純柔順,不管怎麼看,都帶有濃厚的法式風格,舉凡長裙、外套、褲裝及洋裝,皆充滿Dior經典的優雅氣質,果然正如同Maria Grazia Chiuri所述,這次還是以致敬Christian Dior為主,不會刻意去尋求太多的異國色彩。
For her Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection, #MariaGraziaChiuri takes major meterage of an undeniably modest fabric like wool serge, molds it into a fitted and flaring coat dress with potentially prim overtones, and then unexpectedly slices it open to bare a collarbone as an erogenous zone of the most elite kind. Every look holds a stunning surprise - the magic of couture! #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 10:18下午 PDT 張貼
For her Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection, #MariaGraziaChiuri takes major meterage of an undeniably modest fabric like wool serge, molds it into a fitted and flaring coat dress with potentially prim overtones, and then unexpectedly slices it open to bare a collarbone as an erogenous zone of the most elite kind. Every look holds a stunning surprise - the magic of couture! #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 10:18下午 PDT 張貼
Like those pioneering female adventurers who challenged the status quo by daring to enter an occupation originally the territory of men, #MariaGraziaChiuri's just-unveiled Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection reprised Monsieur Dior's own revolution by taking traditionally masculine fabrics and colors and making them unmistakably feminine, softening silhouettes and mixing shades of gray together in one look. Meanwhile, the fedora by hat maestro Stephen Jones closes the circle with a nod to explorers such as Freya Stark! #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 5:41下午 PDT 張貼
Like those pioneering female adventurers who challenged the status quo by daring to enter an occupation originally the territory of men, #MariaGraziaChiuri's just-unveiled Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection reprised Monsieur Dior's own revolution by taking traditionally masculine fabrics and colors and making them unmistakably feminine, softening silhouettes and mixing shades of gray together in one look. Meanwhile, the fedora by hat maestro Stephen Jones closes the circle with a nod to explorers such as Freya Stark! #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 5:41下午 PDT 張貼
Maria Grazia Chiuri為Dior操刀的四個系列擁有相當高的一致性,優雅、柔美、主題明確、女性意識,四者缺一不可。
而女性意識更是Maria Grazia Chiuri一直以來努力在服裝上實踐的目標,除了大量減少有跟鞋而採用平底鞋之外,這次的作品中甚至出現幾雙具有陽剛氣質的樂福鞋,為系列增添了幾分性格酷勁。
此外,仔細看可以發現,Maria Grazia Chiuri也增添了許多如口袋等等實用元素,讓女裝得以脫離單純講究美感的裝扮,而走進現代女性的生活之中,她設計了非常多套日間的外出服,但她並不認為這是她自己帶來的創意,而是Dior一直以來被忽視的特點,很多人對Dior的印象就是華美的晚禮服,但實際上並不只如此。
You will meet a tall, dark stranger. Or, in the case of #MariaGraziaChiuri’s Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection, you will get to travel the globe. This coat lusciously embroidered with a patchwork of tarot cards heralds a glittering future - perfect for the tulle dress with gold thread embroidery fluttering beneath! #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 4 1:21上午 PDT 張貼
You will meet a tall, dark stranger. Or, in the case of #MariaGraziaChiuri’s Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection, you will get to travel the globe. This coat lusciously embroidered with a patchwork of tarot cards heralds a glittering future - perfect for the tulle dress with gold thread embroidery fluttering beneath! #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 4 1:21上午 PDT 張貼
Monsieur Dior loved to introduce a jolt of color in each of his shows - his 'coup de Trafalgar' - and with this belted skirt suit #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection embraced the idea. And in, what else, Dior red! #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 11:55下午 PDT 張貼
Monsieur Dior loved to introduce a jolt of color in each of his shows - his 'coup de Trafalgar' - and with this belted skirt suit #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection embraced the idea. And in, what else, Dior red! #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 11:55下午 PDT 張貼
Get a close look to the moment when this full, swirling evening dress from #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection stepped onto the runway - the epitome of elegance and femininity! #DiorCouture Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 5:19下午 PDT 張貼
Get a close look to the moment when this full, swirling evening dress from #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture collection stepped onto the runway - the epitome of elegance and femininity! #DiorCouture
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 5:19下午 PDT 張貼
「老實說,當你看到許多人擁有的作品檔案和照片記錄,你會發現其實Christian Dior真的設計了非常多日間的外出服。」Maria Grazia Chiuri說。
這次來看秀的名人,包括席琳狄翁(Celine Dion)、克莉絲汀鄧斯特(Kirsten Dunst)名媛Olivia Palermo、名模Karlie Kloss、Dior代言人珍妮佛勞倫斯(Jennifer Lawrence)、娜塔莉波曼(Natalie Portman)、羅伯派汀森(Robert Pattinson)和楊穎(Angelababy)、劉嘉玲、章子怡。
Known and loved the world over, the Canadian singer and incomparable icon Céline Dion - more than adept at setting off a barrage of incessant camera flashes - makes a return visit to the Dior front row for #MariaGraziaChiuri’s Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show, a delightful, warm and beaming presence upping the star wattage dressed all in Dior! #DiorCouture #StarsinDior Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 10:14上午 PDT 張貼
Known and loved the world over, the Canadian singer and incomparable icon Céline Dion - more than adept at setting off a barrage of incessant camera flashes - makes a return visit to the Dior front row for #MariaGraziaChiuri’s Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show, a delightful, warm and beaming presence upping the star wattage dressed all in Dior! #DiorCouture #StarsinDior
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 10:14上午 PDT 張貼
It wouldn't be a Dior haute couture show without House muse Jennifer Lawrence front row. And, dressed in Dior, that's exactly where she was at #MariaGraziaChiuri’s Autumn-Winter 2017-18 couture show today! #DiorCouture #StarsinDior Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 8:16上午 PDT 張貼
It wouldn't be a Dior haute couture show without House muse Jennifer Lawrence front row. And, dressed in Dior, that's exactly where she was at #MariaGraziaChiuri’s Autumn-Winter 2017-18 couture show today! #DiorCouture #StarsinDior
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 8:16上午 PDT 張貼
Robert Pattinson, the handsome face of @DiorHomme, attending #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show head to toe in #DiorHomme by @Kris_Van_Assche! #DiorCouture #StarsinDior Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 1:15下午 PDT 張貼
Robert Pattinson, the handsome face of @DiorHomme, attending #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show head to toe in #DiorHomme by @Kris_Van_Assche! #DiorCouture #StarsinDior
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 1:15下午 PDT 張貼
Model, actress, singer… she does it all! And on top of that Angelababy knows how to pull off a Dior denim look with enviable aplomb in the Paris sunshine at #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show! #DiorCouture #StarsinDior Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 3:04下午 PDT 張貼
Model, actress, singer… she does it all! And on top of that Angelababy knows how to pull off a Dior denim look with enviable aplomb in the Paris sunshine at #MariaGraziaChiuri's Autumn-Winter 2017-18 haute couture show! #DiorCouture #StarsinDior
Dior Official(@dior)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 7月 月 3 3:04下午 PDT 張貼
資料來源:WWD、Vogue、Dior
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