自2015年接下Gucci的創意總監一職,Alessandro Michele雖然成功地讓Gucci走出新的風格,大幅提升了Gucci的營收,但這段時間裡,Gucci的設計卻屢次爆出抄襲爭議,Alessandro Michele也曾向《BoF》(時尚商業評論)透露,這些抄襲的指控非常過分,令他十分難過。
但即便他不願意被如此指責,Alessandro Michele輝煌的「致敬」事蹟仍在持續增加中,而且風波似乎越演越烈。
今年年初,Gucci拍攝的外星人系列形象廣告,被中央聖馬汀學院(Central Saint Martins)的學生Pierre-Louis Auvray在Instagram上發文指控抄襲了他的創意,「我只是個努力在建立我個人作品的學生,我們最不需要的就是作品被剽竊。」Pierre-Louis Auvray在貼文裡說道。
So that person who collaborated on Gucci for this now Deleted HER POST or blocked me since i cant see it anymore , im a student working on building my own stuff and the last thing we need is to be ripped off Pierre-Louis Auvray(@pierlouis7)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 4月 月 20 2:03下午 PDT 張貼
So that person who collaborated on Gucci for this now Deleted HER POST or blocked me since i cant see it anymore , im a student working on building my own stuff and the last thing we need is to be ripped off
Pierre-Louis Auvray(@pierlouis7)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 4月 月 20 2:03下午 PDT 張貼
此則貼文引發了媒體的關注,但Alessandro Michele解釋,他在創作這個系列之前,根本沒看過Pierre-Louis Auvray的作品,他的創作源頭全是來自那些70年代的太空電影,這點子也已經在他腦中醞釀數個月了。
「創意無關名氣,我的意思是,你正在思考的事情,可能也是其他人心心念念的事。雖然我45歲,但不代表我連一點創意都沒有。我也像個學生一樣,沒有什麼不同,這不是一場戰爭。」Alessandro Michele說道。
"Bish" stole my look! Give credit to @dapperdanharlem He did it FIRST in 1989! #gucci #GucciRipOff Now they get it! Long time overdue! @iamaprilwalker @tammyfordagency #DesignerWars #louisvuitton #LouisVuittonMinkJacket #dianedixonolympian @usmarothonmann @677flycreative @pam_boy @spaceodditykelly @i_am_audrey_ #dapperdanharlem @tom.prior @balleralert @theshaderoom Diane Dixon(@dianedixon)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 5月 月 30 10:10上午 PDT 張貼
"Bish" stole my look! Give credit to @dapperdanharlem He did it FIRST in 1989! #gucci #GucciRipOff Now they get it! Long time overdue! @iamaprilwalker @tammyfordagency #DesignerWars #louisvuitton #LouisVuittonMinkJacket #dianedixonolympian @usmarothonmann @677flycreative @pam_boy @spaceodditykelly @i_am_audrey_ #dapperdanharlem @tom.prior @balleralert @theshaderoom
Diane Dixon(@dianedixon)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 5月 月 30 10:10上午 PDT 張貼
好不容易弭平了風波,但推出了Gucci 2018年早春系列後,再度陷入抄襲疑雲,而且不只一人出面控訴。先是一件蓬袖外套被爆與紐約哈林區知名設計師Dapper Dan於80年代的設計幾乎一模一樣;另外在T恤與托特包上使用的圖案與文字呈現,也被來自紐西蘭及澳洲的兩位插畫家Stuart Smythe和Milan Chagoury指控抄襲,這些被指控的設計,確實都與原作的相似度極高。
Iv kept this quite for a little while, But its time to speak up and get some attention. Its pretty easy to see that @gucci Has copied not only the combination of elements together that create this logo, but when I overlay my snake illustration on top of the copy, the scales even line up perfectly. Its easy to prove and see whats going on here. Its a shame large corporations "Take" What belongs to us indie artists and use it for their own profit margins. It actually makes me laugh that @lallo25 has so much press wearing this teeshirt around. And the other thing is the tails of the snake don't even connect to anything after they flipped the top half hahaha..! GOLD! #alessandromichele #guccicruise18 #gucci #guccified #copydesign #stuartsmythe #arttheft Stuart Smythe(@stuartsmythe)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 16 10:49下午 PDT 張貼
Iv kept this quite for a little while, But its time to speak up and get some attention. Its pretty easy to see that @gucci Has copied not only the combination of elements together that create this logo, but when I overlay my snake illustration on top of the copy, the scales even line up perfectly. Its easy to prove and see whats going on here. Its a shame large corporations "Take" What belongs to us indie artists and use it for their own profit margins. It actually makes me laugh that @lallo25 has so much press wearing this teeshirt around. And the other thing is the tails of the snake don't even connect to anything after they flipped the top half hahaha..! GOLD! #alessandromichele #guccicruise18 #gucci #guccified #copydesign #stuartsmythe #arttheft
Stuart Smythe(@stuartsmythe)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 16 10:49下午 PDT 張貼
You know your doing something right when even @gucci rip your stuff. When designing for a business (band or brand) make sure you hire a professional designer as most of the time these guys are just ripping off someone else's work with no guilt at all. It's ok to be inspired but there are an infinite ways of representing a concept and being original is a key way of standing out in this business. #design #staybold #gucci #GucciCruise18 Milan Chagoury(@staybold)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 13 5:30下午 PDT 張貼
You know your doing something right when even @gucci rip your stuff. When designing for a business (band or brand) make sure you hire a professional designer as most of the time these guys are just ripping off someone else's work with no guilt at all. It's ok to be inspired but there are an infinite ways of representing a concept and being original is a key way of standing out in this business. #design #staybold #gucci #GucciCruise18
Milan Chagoury(@staybold)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 13 5:30下午 PDT 張貼
除了今年連番的抄襲事件之外,在2016年的春夏系列與秋冬系列,都分別有設計師及藝術家出面指控侵權,也表示要對Gucci提出侵權訴訟,但最終,沒有任何法律行動發生,輿論也都迅速平息了下來。
Seen in the women’s #GucciFW16 fashion show, a #GucciGhost shopper customized by @troubleandrew, and a black rhombus printed silk skirt. “I think that #Gucci so much bigger than the fashion brand itself. It’s like a language, it really is something that you say as something that means you are doing good. You know ‘you’re #Gucci, you’re good’,” @troubleandrew. Gucci(@gucci)分享的貼文 於 2016 年 2月 月 24 6:41上午 PST 張貼
Seen in the women’s #GucciFW16 fashion show, a #GucciGhost shopper customized by @troubleandrew, and a black rhombus printed silk skirt. “I think that #Gucci so much bigger than the fashion brand itself. It’s like a language, it really is something that you say as something that means you are doing good. You know ‘you’re #Gucci, you’re good’,” @troubleandrew.
Gucci(@gucci)分享的貼文 於 2016 年 2月 月 24 6:41上午 PST 張貼
new borns. #SoniqueSaturday Sonique Saturday(@soniquesaturday)分享的貼文 於 2015 年 11月 月 4 11:56上午 PST 張貼
new borns. #SoniqueSaturday
Sonique Saturday(@soniquesaturday)分享的貼文 於 2015 年 11月 月 4 11:56上午 PST 張貼
#AlessandroMichele proposes bold new ways to wear jewellery on your fingers for next season #GucciSS16 L'OFFICIEL Malaysia(@lofficielmalaysia)分享的貼文 於 2015 年 9月 月 24 3:11上午 PDT 張貼
#AlessandroMichele proposes bold new ways to wear jewellery on your fingers for next season #GucciSS16
L'OFFICIEL Malaysia(@lofficielmalaysia)分享的貼文 於 2015 年 9月 月 24 3:11上午 PDT 張貼
Reconsider your youth. Lee press-ons revisited since 2006. #madeinnyc #originalbijules #nailrings #bijules Bijules Jewelry(@bijules)分享的貼文 於 2014 年 8月 月 28 6:28下午 PDT 張貼
Reconsider your youth. Lee press-ons revisited since 2006. #madeinnyc #originalbijules #nailrings #bijules
Bijules Jewelry(@bijules)分享的貼文 於 2014 年 8月 月 28 6:28下午 PDT 張貼
這些事件不免令人思考,Alessandro Michele難道就只是個被美化的抄襲者?還是這些出面指控的設計師都想藉著Gucci的光環炒熱自己的名聲?又或者,這些問題其實一點都不重要?
如果我們關注的是品牌營運的數字,那確實,抄襲與否真的不太重要,因為就財務數字來看,消費者並不在意這些抄襲的風風雨雨,Gucci在2016年第四季創下21%的高成長,幾乎是分析師預測值的兩倍,全年銷售額更是超過40億歐元。
而在今年4月,開雲(Kering)集團公布的數字再一次令人震驚,2017年Gucci第一季銷售額成長48.3%,來到13.5億歐元,創下20年來最高的單季銷售額成長紀錄。
儘管近期又爆出了抄襲爭議,但消費者真的會因為這些設計與以往設計過於雷同,覺得不夠新奇而改變了他們的購買行為嗎?從品牌的種種財務表現看來,答案是否定的。現在的時尚,在社群媒體快速更新的推動之下,所有的事件都只能吸引短暫的注意力,大家過目就忘了,所有資訊的保鮮期可能都不到24小時,人們的飢渴只針對那些還未出現的內容。
雖然這些抄襲事件因為社群媒體的緣故,比以往更為人所知而且有完整的記錄,但至少就目前看來,知名品牌發生抄襲事件之後,所受到的形象或業績衝擊,似乎影響不大。
現在的時尚產業,原創性也許已經不是最重要的元素了,重點是如何在最短的時間內,創造出最大的話題,讓消費者迫不急待地掏錢買下美麗的商品,那些爭議什麼的,就擺著吧,人們很快就會忘的。
資料來源:WWD、The Fashion Law
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