在Alessandro Michele的帶領之下,Gucci聲勢日漸看漲,但是新推出的2018年早春度假系列卻一再捲入抄襲疑雲。
當初Gucci的早春系列一推出,就有不少人發現,其中有一件帶有蓬袖設計的飛行員夾克,與紐約哈林區知名設計師Dapper Dan一件1989年的設計,幾乎一模一樣。在一片撻伐聲中,Gucci也發出官方聲明表示,這件作品確實就是向Dapper Dan致敬,他們也試過聯絡設計師本人,討論可能的合作機會,但卻沒有連絡上。
"Bish" stole my look! Give credit to @dapperdanharlem He did it FIRST in 1989! #gucci #GucciRipOff Now they get it! Long time overdue! @iamaprilwalker @tammyfordagency #DesignerWars #louisvuitton #LouisVuittonMinkJacket #dianedixonolympian @usmarothonmann @677flycreative @pam_boy @spaceodditykelly @i_am_audrey_ #dapperdanharlem @tom.prior @balleralert @theshaderoom Diane Dixon(@dianedixon)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 5月 月 30 10:10上午 PDT 張貼
"Bish" stole my look! Give credit to @dapperdanharlem He did it FIRST in 1989! #gucci #GucciRipOff Now they get it! Long time overdue! @iamaprilwalker @tammyfordagency #DesignerWars #louisvuitton #LouisVuittonMinkJacket #dianedixonolympian @usmarothonmann @677flycreative @pam_boy @spaceodditykelly @i_am_audrey_ #dapperdanharlem @tom.prior @balleralert @theshaderoom
Diane Dixon(@dianedixon)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 5月 月 30 10:10上午 PDT 張貼
Gucci的誠實以對,終究是讓風波暫時平靜了下來,但一波未平,一波又起,同一個早春系列作品再次被控訴抄襲,這次找上門的是分別是來自澳洲及紐西蘭的插畫家。兩人已經向律師說明了事情原委,他們這幾週以來,曾多次試圖要與Gucci討論此事,但卻對方卻不予理會。
這次Gucci早春系列出現爭議的設計,其中一個是白色T恤上印著的蛇形圖騰,蛇的外圍排列成橢圓形的三行粗體字,上半部以最粗大字體寫著「Guccify Yourself」;另一個設計是在托特包上,一隻站在岩石上正在嘶吼的黑豹圖騰,外圍環繞著兩行大的粗體字,其中一句寫著「Guccification」。
多位模特兒都穿著那款T恤出現在這場服裝秀上,就連Gucci創意總監Alessandro Michele最後謝幕時,也是穿著這款T恤。
以峇里島為主要據點的紐西蘭插畫家Stuart Smythe表示,那個蛇型Logo是他在2014年為當時還未推出的CLVL Apparel Co.服飾公司所設計的,雖然Gucci的版本經過了鏡射翻轉,但不管是大小、陰影重疊的位置、蛇尾巴的閃電圖示、甚至是字母「R」旁邊小白點也都一樣,那是他在字體上刻意做出的仿舊風格。
Iv kept this quite for a little while, But its time to speak up and get some attention. Its pretty easy to see that @gucci Has copied not only the combination of elements together that create this logo, but when I overlay my snake illustration on top of the copy, the scales even line up perfectly. Its easy to prove and see whats going on here. Its a shame large corporations "Take" What belongs to us indie artists and use it for their own profit margins. It actually makes me laugh that @lallo25 has so much press wearing this teeshirt around. And the other thing is the tails of the snake don't even connect to anything after they flipped the top half hahaha..! GOLD! #alessandromichele #guccicruise18 #gucci #guccified #copydesign #stuartsmythe #arttheft Stuart Smythe(@stuartsmythe)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 16 10:49下午 PDT 張貼
Iv kept this quite for a little while, But its time to speak up and get some attention. Its pretty easy to see that @gucci Has copied not only the combination of elements together that create this logo, but when I overlay my snake illustration on top of the copy, the scales even line up perfectly. Its easy to prove and see whats going on here. Its a shame large corporations "Take" What belongs to us indie artists and use it for their own profit margins. It actually makes me laugh that @lallo25 has so much press wearing this teeshirt around. And the other thing is the tails of the snake don't even connect to anything after they flipped the top half hahaha..! GOLD! #alessandromichele #guccicruise18 #gucci #guccified #copydesign #stuartsmythe #arttheft
Stuart Smythe(@stuartsmythe)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 16 10:49下午 PDT 張貼
而以Stay Bold為名的插畫家Milan Chagoury,曾經幫知名樂團珍珠果醬(Pearl Jam)、眨眼182(Blink 182)、反抗軍(Rise Against)、飆風大道(Parkway Drive)、服裝品牌Vans、Reebok、Hurley等創作。他則是指控Gucci托特包上的黑豹圖像,抄襲他在2015年為澳洲刺青工作室White Tiger Tattoo Co.所設計的白老虎商標,Gucci只不過是將老虎換成豹而已。
You know your doing something right when even @gucci rip your stuff. When designing for a business (band or brand) make sure you hire a professional designer as most of the time these guys are just ripping off someone else's work with no guilt at all. It's ok to be inspired but there are an infinite ways of representing a concept and being original is a key way of standing out in this business. #design #staybold #gucci #GucciCruise18 Milan Chagoury(@staybold)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 13 5:30下午 PDT 張貼
You know your doing something right when even @gucci rip your stuff. When designing for a business (band or brand) make sure you hire a professional designer as most of the time these guys are just ripping off someone else's work with no guilt at all. It's ok to be inspired but there are an infinite ways of representing a concept and being original is a key way of standing out in this business. #design #staybold #gucci #GucciCruise18
Milan Chagoury(@staybold)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 13 5:30下午 PDT 張貼
Gucci拒絕對這兩位設計師的指控做出任何回應,而品牌官方Instagram上,分享了一張這款托特包的特寫照片,該則貼文湧入了至少數百則網友譴責的回應,Gucci也不願對此多所回應。
Gucci發言人對《WWD》(女裝日報)表示,「Gucci 2018年早春系列是Alessandro Michele對虛實文化的持續探索,在『Guccification』和『Guccify Yourself』的主題下,有一系列巧玩Gucci logo的單品,運用已經『Guccified』的圖像和文字,讓街頭風格與街頭俚語進行創意交流。在過去這兩年半來,Gucci已經透過一系列自然發生、象徵世代交替的創意合作定義自己,這次的例子也是一樣,我們目前也直接與這兩位創作者聯繫了。」
Printed on a tote seen on the runway of #GucciCruise18, ‘Soave Amore’—‘a delicate love’—the Italian version of words from a Latin first-century BC poem, ‘De Rerum Natura’ ‘On the Nature of Things’ by Roman poet and philosopher Lucretius, which explains Epicurean philosophy. #AlessandroMichele Gucci(@gucci)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 3 3:55上午 PDT 張貼
Printed on a tote seen on the runway of #GucciCruise18, ‘Soave Amore’—‘a delicate love’—the Italian version of words from a Latin first-century BC poem, ‘De Rerum Natura’ ‘On the Nature of Things’ by Roman poet and philosopher Lucretius, which explains Epicurean philosophy. #AlessandroMichele
Gucci(@gucci)分享的貼文 於 2017 年 6月 月 3 3:55上午 PDT 張貼
Stuart Smythe與Milan Chagoury也證實,Gucci在接到《WWD》的詢問過後,便派代表與他們兩人聯繫,討論未來合作的可能性。
根據Milan Chagoury的說法,這項提議是有條件的,他必須得簽下保密協定才行。
「在發生這些事情之後,我對於合作一點興趣也沒有。」Milan Chagoury說,「過去幾週,他們對我沒有絲毫的回應,這只是他們在藝術與設計圈以及在時尚產業裡,掩飾重大罪行的手法,不必多說什麼了。」
Stuart Smythe則說,他也對與Gucci的合作毫無興趣,「他們應該是最有創造力的,他們所設定的標準是其他人會效法的。」Stuart Smythe也對於Gucci的做法感到非常失望,「如果他們能更早與我接觸,而且也提出一個數字,那我當然會考慮出售我的設計,但現在他們這樣的做法,我是不會讓他們將我列為Gucci的其中一位設計師的。」
Stuart Smythe的代表律師Tyler Branson表示,他相信這位澳洲插畫家處在很有利的地位,因為這項疑似被抄襲的作品也是他公司的識別標誌。
「不該允許Gucci為了他們自己的利益,而奪走其他人的企業識別,或其他人的藝術識別,而且也不該放任他們那麼做,完全沒有任何後果。」他說。
資料來源:WWD
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