Burberry似乎鐵了心要改頭換面!就在這個英國百年品牌宣布義大利設計師Riccardo Tisci於3月12日接任Christopher Bailey的創意長職位後,Burberry的股價在盤中上漲了5.2%,零售商與分析師均看好曾經在Givenchy緊密合作的Marco Gobbetti和Riccardo Tisci,兩人能再度聯手讓Burberry重返榮耀。
Burberry announces Riccardo Tisci as Chief Creative Officer effective 12 March 2018. . "I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new Chief Creative Officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry"s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand." @RiccardoTisci17 . Artwork: @KaterinaJebb, 2018, Copyright A post shared by Burberry (@burberry) on Mar 1, 2018 at 12:48am PST
Burberry announces Riccardo Tisci as Chief Creative Officer effective 12 March 2018. . "I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new Chief Creative Officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry"s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand." @RiccardoTisci17 . Artwork: @KaterinaJebb, 2018, Copyright
A post shared by Burberry (@burberry) on Mar 1, 2018 at 12:48am PST
2017年10月接手Burberry執行長工作的Marco Gobbetti,在前往Burberry之前,曾先後在法國品牌Givenchy和Céline擔任執行長,2004年9月才在米蘭發表過個人首個系列的Riccardo Tisci,就被Marco Gobbetti延攬,於2005年2月接手英國設計師Julien Macdonald離開後留下的職缺,成為Givenchy的創意總監,負責男裝、女裝、皮件和配件,而Riccardo Tisci這麼一待就是12年,直到2017年2月才離任。如今兩位來自義大利的時尚工作者,共同肩負要讓這個英國老牌重返榮耀的重責大任。
折扣並非萬靈丹!Burberry試圖扭轉品牌形象 致使美國銷售告急
1999年畢業於倫敦中央聖馬汀學院(Central Saint Martins)的Riccardo Tisci,之後主要會在Burberry倫敦總部工作,主導品牌全系列商品,他上任後的首場發表,預計在9月份登場,早於品牌原本的預期。2017年10月Christopher Bailey宣布要卸任時,他曾表示,2月發表的系列會是他在Burberry的最後一季設計,9月份的發表很可能會由品牌自己的設計團隊負責發想執行。
而隨著Riccardo Tisci前往Burberry,他要加入Versace的傳聞,也終於可以暫時停歇。
暗黑系設計師Riccardo Tisci入主Versace計畫生變?
Perfect Sunday lunch #love A post shared by Riccardo Tisci (@riccardotisci17) on Jan 28, 2018 at 12:31am PST
Perfect Sunday lunch #love
A post shared by Riccardo Tisci (@riccardotisci17) on Jan 28, 2018 at 12:31am PST
「Riccardo是我們這個時代最有才華的設計師之一。」Marco Gobbetti表示,「他的設計有種當代的優雅,他擅長融合街頭與高端時尚,這對現在的精品消費者來說,是相當重要的。Riccardo的創意眼光將能強化我們對Burberry的抱負,並穩固品牌的精品定位。」
Riccardo Tisci表示,自己非常榮幸且開心能加入Burberry,並與Marco Gobbetti再度重聚,「我無比尊重Burberry的英式傳統與全球魅力,我對於這個卓越品牌的潛力感到興奮。」而對於能再重回倫敦,他也感到無比興奮,「倫敦在我心中是個非常特別的地方,我就讀於中央聖馬汀,我在那裡真正學習到表達自己、個體性、反常及英式創意的重要性,我迫不及待要再度以倫敦為家了。」
影后禮服的秘密!艾瑪史東奧斯卡絕美珠繡流蘇禮服成Riccardo Tisci告別Givenchy最後之作
‘I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new Chief Creative Officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage ad global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand” @burberry ARTWORK @katerinajebb #burberry A post shared by Riccardo Tisci (@riccardotisci17) on Mar 1, 2018 at 12:49am PST
‘I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new Chief Creative Officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage ad global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand” @burberry ARTWORK @katerinajebb #burberry
A post shared by Riccardo Tisci (@riccardotisci17) on Mar 1, 2018 at 12:49am PST
“I want to thank #Burberry for this incredible opportunity - I am so excited to join the team and for everything we will achieve together. “ @burberry Artwork @katerinajebb A post shared by Riccardo Tisci (@riccardotisci17) on Mar 1, 2018 at 2:33am PST
“I want to thank #Burberry for this incredible opportunity - I am so excited to join the team and for everything we will achieve together. “ @burberry Artwork @katerinajebb
A post shared by Riccardo Tisci (@riccardotisci17) on Mar 1, 2018 at 2:33am PST
零售商及分析師們相當贊同Marco Gobbetti的決定,也認為Riccardo Tisci將能實現執行者的策略,鞏固Burberry在精品界的一席之地,同時吸引更年輕的新消費者。
一位與Burberry關係密切的消息來源表示,品牌寄望透過Riccardo Tisci將休閒服裝提升至高端服飾的專業,提升品牌在精品消費者心目中的地位。
「我很興奮,我覺得這很棒。他之前曾與Marco共事過,這是非常好的,我認為整個交接過程會非常平順,因此我很滿意。」加拿大精品零售商Holt, Renfrew & Co.總裁Mario Grauso表示,「我想他能巧玩歷史符碼,我很興奮,我認為這一定會不錯。」
「我們很愛這個點子,我們是Riccardo的大粉絲,我們認為他是當今線上很棒的設計師之一,是其中一位最有創造力的。」美國精品百貨Neiman Marcus的總裁暨商品長Jim Gold表示,「他對時下的街頭流行有很高的敏銳度,也對精品與質感也有很好的理解。我們認為這個意料之外的結合,Marco將Riccardo的卓越創意注入像Burberry這樣的傳統品牌,將會讓我們的消費者感到非常興奮,我非常有信心Marco會持續提供讓Burberry受歡迎的商品,同時為它們注入能讓品牌創造更大需求的新意和創意。」
巴黎銀行證券部精品產業分析師Luca Solca表示,由於Riccardo Tisci過去的表現相當好,同時又有極高的知名度,這個安排對該公司股票會帶來正面激勵和支撐。
資料來源:BoF、The Guardian、WWD
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